Hi F1r3Punch,

you are a member of the hall of fame at the f1setupblog.com.

Some of our members wanted  to know who is the person who stands for the f1r3punch setup guide.

Can you tell us something about you? (how old, where from…..)

f1r3punch:

Well, I’m 30 years old, from Moscow, Russia. I’ve lived in New York for past 12 years and have recently moved to Russia, closer to my family.

Which status has the Codemasters game for the russian youth and how big is the community there?

f1r3punch:

There are a good number of F1 enthusiast in Russia, and the number seems to be growing especially with a big Track projects in works at the moment. There is going to be a Russian Track present in 2014 F1 Calendar, so we will probably see that number spike even further.

For how long do you play simracing games now?

f1r3punch:

I have been a big fan of a flight and racing simulators from early ages. I have a great addiction & passion to speed, cars & planes. So if i had to put a number to it, probably since the age of 10, because thats when I first learned to drive, and the passion started to grow from there on. Of course, i wasn’t allowed to drive much on open roads on my dad’s car so I switched over to computer simulators. Even though, back then computer games were pretty much few giant pixels back then, but we got the kicks out of it regardless. I remember my first F1 game, i forget the name of it, but I specifically remember well Monza and Silverstone Tracks. It was black asphalt, green grass, and red and white kerbs. Thats all you got …. You would just go around twists and turns, in the cockpit view. Back then it was “state of the art” game… even though by today’s measures no-one even makes that type of graphics even in java games on the web.

What is your personal driver level at the moment?

f1r3punch:

My driving level, I would say competed. If you asked me, about my level before I met f1ps3 crew, even before the website was born I thought i was a “bad ass”…. But that quickly diminished once the real season started, where you can track you performance. I quickly noticed that I was very inconsistent on long race conditions, specially racing against most of them who used Wheels, as my fingers would cramp up somewhere by the mid race and the amount of unforced errors would go higher and higher costing me time. However, this year, I invested into a proper wheel to go toe to toe with these guys. This is not quick 20% race with random strangers in the Codemasters Lobby, they are all talented racers, and it is hard to finish high if you come unprepared. So with the aid of the wheel, I’m expecting my consistency to go up, and with that less errors, and hopefully my driving level will get better this year.

Your great setup guide is well known now in the whole  Codemasters F1 community.

f1r3punch:

I dont know if my setup is THAT popular!! lol. However, thank you for kind words, and support. The reason I made the guide is that i realized that some people still have problem setting up the car specifically for their own driving style. Because you can always go and steal best time setups, try them and hate them, wondering how the hell that person made that time. Besides, people often would ask me to share my setup with them. So instead of just handing out the ready setups which would probably not suit their driving style. I decided to share my understandings of the mechanics of the game, so that person can sit and enjoy setting up the car their own way. Not only people learn that way, but also get satisfaction when they achieve a high level of performance out of their car.

What were the reasons for you to work out such a great and helpful guide for all drivers? Are you a specialist for cars or was it your big interest for the formula 1 that inspired you to generate this guide?

f1r3punch:

I have always loved tinkering with electronics, and mechanics. Since my early childhood, I would always break things apart, to understand how they work. Then try to put them back together. Of course it would not always work well, and i would have some screws either missing, or extra. But in the long run, that experience teaches you how to organize your work space and learn how things work.

One of my hobbies in real life, an expensive hobby i must add, is tuning cars. Right before i moved to Russia, I owned Nissan 370z Nismo Edition, and I enjoyed modifying that car. I learned the mechanics of the real cars gradually, reading and learning from real life racers and mechanics. When I bought my first car, it was Mitsubishi Eclipse. I have done all mechanical work by myself, with a help of friends garage. Have torn apart the engine, reinforced all the internal parts, put it back together and installed it back up on to the car. Then used it in a drag and circuit racing events. So when it came to the Simulator Game – some of my knowledge from real world, helped me grasp the game physics.

How do you like the new game F1-2012 and what are your first experiences?

f1r3punch:

The F1 2012, is probably the best out of them three. I really love the physics of this game. The improvements that Codemasters have made this year, are far greater then they have on previous installment of the game. The cars do feel much more realistic. The good thing they have made this year, is that the car setup will not give you huge boost. As the gap between default setup and great setup would probably give you maximum 1 second boost. So the gaps between racers this year will definitely shrink in single hot lap pace. Also, due to the rules of park ferme, this year. Things do get more interesting. As you could setup a car to do a really good qualification time, but will it work in the race pace as well on heavy load? Thats the ultimate goal for a great setup this year. It is not just pedal to the metal this year…. there is a good bit of strategy involved which create an exciting race.

Do you plan an update of your guide for F12012?

f1r3punch:

I don’t know yet if I will have time to update the Guide for F1 2012. It will depend on community’s demand for it. If people want it I will spend time on it this year.

If i do, it won’t be an update. It would be starting the new guide from scratch, and improve it from my previous experience. As the key element, is to teach people how certain element effect the balance of the car. Once persons learns that, my job is done. I remember that there were few things in my previous guide that I left unfinished. So I will probably spend time on coming up with a new guide this season, once I confirm the effects of each element in the new game environment with improved physics. As this year, it is evident that your best setup for McLaren, will not work well for Sauber or another car. So it is important to know how to troubleshoot your car, and setup the right balance.

Will we see it here on the f1setupblog.com?

f1r3punch:

I’m honored to be acknowledged in the F1 Community, thank you for supporting my work.

If I create the f1 2012 guide, then I will definitely share with with f1setupblog.com =)

Thank you again!

f1r3punch

Thank you very much!

Bonefishtrader

 

 
 

 

 

Hey Racer´s

F1r3Punch worked out a very good Setup-Guide for interested f1 2011 racer´s. Thank you very much to be allowed to publish it to our users on the f1setupblog.com

The quality of your content is good enough to be in the Hall of fame of the blog.

Thanks F1r3Punch

f1setupblog.com-Bonefishtrader

 

 

F1r3Punch (RU)

 

F1r3Punch´s Setup-Guide

Section 1. Understanding the Track Characteristics

Very first thing to do, before going into the settings of the car, and fiddling with configuration. You must always understand the characteristics of the track. That is why “Codemasters” have shared the basic track information with you in the car monitor.

The most important things to pay attention to is:
1. Top Speed
2. Tyre Wear
3. Brake Wear
4. Full Throttle Ratio
5. Gear Changes Per Lap

Lets discuss why you need to know this:

1. “Top Speed” – This gives you the approximate Top Speed that most people will be reaching before the end of the longest straight on a given track, so your goal is to reach or exceed this area to give you an advantage during the Qualification & Race. However, always remember that having higher Top Speed than your competitor does NOT necessarily make you faster. But we will get into this later.

2. “Tyre Wear” – This gives you the approximate idea of the Tyre Degradation that everyone will be facing on a given Track. So do not panic if your tyres start to degrade quicker than in the previous track that you just came from, go in to this section read about the track and then move on to settings and try to improve the tyre wear as much as you can. Details later…

3. “Brake Wear” – This gives you the approximate idea of how often you will be using your brakes. If the Brake Wear Info states High, that means that the brakes on this track play crucial role in your Lap Times. You have to watch out for Heat & Lock Up problems when choosing the right Brake setups. Details later…

4. “Full Throttle Ratio” – This gives you the approximate idea of Acceleration Vs Top Speed. If this percentage is High, that means this track has longer straights and having longer Gear Box with Higher Top Speed is more important than Short Gear Box with Lower Top Speed. Low percentage has reverse effect. Which means having Shorter Gear Box with faster acceleration is more important.

5. “Gear Changes per Lap” – This is very similar information as Full Throttle Ratio. This gives you approximate understanding of what type of Gear Box you should go for. Higher Number means, you will be facing lots of gear changes so shorter gear box is important. Lower number means, you won’t be shifting as often so having longer gear box is important.

Section 1 Summary:
Now that we understand the Track Characteristics. Next thing you must do FIRST, is to identify the Baseline of your Car Balance. Which means, do not go into the setting and start changing things around. First, Select the default setup, and go out on track for few laps to get used to it, and also analyze what is wrong with the default setup, and what would you like to improve. Details in the next section…

Section 2. Understanding the Baseline of your Car

Alright! If you still with me, that means we are doing good. Now you are taking your ride for a spin. Make sure you are always using same Default Setup to identify the Baseline. What is Baseline?

“Baseline” – Is a starting reference Point, which we can use to compare our changes to. Without Baseline, you can’t not tell if the changes you’ve made gave you a benefit or a loss. So this is very important, to know where you were Before, where are you Now, and where do you want to Go.

Now that you know what is Baseline. Lets make a Check List of Things that you must pay attention to, while you are out practicing Default Setup.

When looking for a Right Balance you must pay attention to:

1. Car Behavior on Cold Tyres.
2. Car Behavior on Warm Tyres.
3. Car Behavior on Straight Road.
4. Car Behavior under Heavy Breaking into Slow Speed Corner/Chicane/Hairpin.
5. Car Behavior under Medium Breaking into Medium Speed Corner/Chicane.
6. Car Behavior when Coasting into Fast Speed Corner/Chicane.
7. Car Behavior during the Direction Changes in Slow Speed Chicanes.
8. Car Behavior during the Direction Changes in Medium Speed Chicanes.
9. Car Behavior during the Direction Changes in Fast Speed Chicanes.
10. Car Behavior under Acceleration from Slow Speed Corner/Chicane/Hairpin.
11. Car Behavior under Acceleration from Medium Speed Corner/Chicane.
12. Car Behavior under Acceleration from Fast Speed Corner/Chicane.
13. Top Speed
14. Acceleration
15. Traction

Section 2 Summary:

Sounds like a lot? Well it may, but if you learn to identify them quickly. It will help you setup and troubleshoot your Car quicker.
Alright, now lets move on to Next Section “Understanding Car Setup”

Section 3. Understanding the Car Setup

Alright, now you tested your car, and you know what you don’t like about it, and you’re ready to make some changes. But before you do that, lets make sure you understand the Setup Screen First.

Lets discuss each area of the Car Setup starting with:

1. “Aerodynamics” - This one seems to be one of the straight forward sections of the Car Balance that people think they understand the most, but for some reason when it comes to troubleshooting their cars, they only look for the solutions in this area alone. Which is a huge mistake as changing a single point in this area can upset the car balance tremendously.

Most important thing to understand in this area is that Aerodynamics take most effect from Medium Speed to Fast Speed. That is when you will notice the most effects of any changes you make in Aerodynamics Section. So if you’re trying to solve your “Understeer Problem in a Slow Speed Corner” by raising your front wing higher. All you will get is Oversteer in The Medium to Fast Corner, and that Slow Speed Corner could still Understeer.

Having said that Lets discuss the Good & the Bad of the Front and Rear Wings:

High Front Wing:

Good
1. Higher Front End Braking Power.
2. High Front End Grip inside Medium to Fast Corners.
3. Responsive car behavior on the Straight Line in Medium To Fast Speeds.
4. More stability under heavy fuel load in the medium to Fast Speed Corners/Chicanes.
5. Allows Front Brake Bias.

Bad
1. More Drag in the Straight Line, hence slower acceleration, and lower Top Speed.
2. Oversteer under Breaking into Slow to Medium Type Corners/Chicanes/Hairpins.
3. Oversteer under Acceleration from Slow to Medium Type Corners/Chicanes/Hairpins.
4. Restricts the Rear Break Bias.

Low Front Wing:

Good
1. Less Drag in the Straight Line, hence faster acceleration, and higher Top Speed.
2. Stable Breaking into Slow to Fast Type Corners/Chicanes/Hairpins.
3. Stable Acceleration from Slow to Fast Type Corners/Chicanes/Hairpins.
4. Stable car behavior on the Straight Line in Medium To Fast Speeds.
5. Allows the Rear Break Bias.

Bad
1. Lower Front End Breaking Power/Front Lock Ups.
2. Lower Front End Grip/Understeer inside Medium and Fast Corners/Chicanes.
3. Understeer under heavy fuel loads inside Medium to Fast Speed Corners/Chicanes.
4. Restricts the Front Break Bias.

High Rear Wing:

Good
1. Better Traction on Acceleration from Slow To Fast Speed Corners/Chicanes.
2. Stable Rear End during Direction changes & Medium to Fast Speed Corners.
3. Higher Rear End Braking Power.
4. Allows Rear Brake Bias.
5. More effective DRS System.
High Rear Wing:

Good
1. Better Traction on Acceleration from Slow To Fast Speed Corners/Chicanes.
2. Stable Rear End during Direction changes & Medium to Fast Speed Corners.
3. Higher Rear End Braking Power.
4. Allows Rear Brake Bias.
5. More effective DRS System.

Bad
1. More Drag in the Straight Line, hence slower acceleration, and lower Top Speed.
2. Disadvantage if DRS System is unavailable.

Low Rear Wing:

Good
1. Less Drag in the Straight Line, hence faster acceleration, and higher Top Speed.
2. Advantage when DRS System is unavailable.

Bad
1. Low Traction on Acceleration from Slow To Fast Speed Corners/Chicanes/Hairpins.
2. Unstable Rear End during Direction changes & Medium to Fast Speed Corners/Chicanes.
3. Lower Rear End Breaking Power/Rear Lock Ups.
4. Less effective DRS System.
5. Restricts Rear Brake Bias.

2. “Braking” – This area will mostly depend on your Driving Style. There are smooth drivers who like to break early, which leads to faster exits and lower tyre degradation, and there are aggressive drivers who like to break as late as possible with ability to outbreak the opponent but they suffer from higher tyre degradation and slower exits.

Having said that Lets discuss the Good & the Bad of the Braking Preferences:

Front Brake Bias: (This one is If you like to Break Early, and exit Quick.)

Good
1. Effective performance with Higher Front Wing.
2. Allows fast exits from the corners and achieve higher Top Speed by the end of the straights.
3. Lower Tyre Degradation.

Bad
1. Leaves room for others to outbreak you.
2. Understeer & Front End Lock UPs while braking into Slow to Medium Speed Corners/Chicanes/Hairpins, if Front Wing is set too Low.
3. Understeer on braking inside Medium and Fast Speed Corners.

Rear Brake Bias: (This one if you like to Outbreak opponents)

Good
1. Effective performance with Lower Front Wing.
2. Allows late breaking and points the nose of the car at apex during breaking.
3. Stable breaking inside Medium and Fast Speed Corners

Bad
1. Higher Tyre Degradation.
2. Oversteer & Rear End Lock UPs while braking into Slow to Medium Speed Corners/Chicanes/Hairpins, if Rear Wing is set too Low.

Brake Pressure: This one is simple. It’s pretty much how hard your Brake pads, will bite the Brake Disk. The difference between 3 Types of Pressures will only reflect on your rate of Lock UPs, and Brake Distance.

High Brake Pressure:
Good
1. Shortest Braking Distance

Bad
1. Major Lock Ups if (Brakes Size is too Small, and/or Wing levels are too Low, and/or Suspension too Hard, and/or Camber Angle is to high, and/or wet track.)
2. Not effective in Intermediate or Wet Weather Conditions.

Medium Brake Pressure:
Good
1. Ability to Perform well both in Dry and Intermediate Weather Conditions.

Bad
1. Minor Lock Ups if (Brakes Size is too Small, and/or Wing levels are too Low, and/or Suspension too Hard, and/or Camber Angle is to high and/or wet track.)
2. May not be Effective in Wet Weather Conditions on some tracks.

Low Brake Pressure:
Good
1. Ideal for Wet Weather Conditions.

Bad
1. Longest Braking Distance.
2. Not effective in Dry Weather Conditions.

Brake Size: Similar to Break Pressure, Break Size will play role in the Rate of Lock UPs, and Braking Distance. However, in addition it has a weight factor. That you will mostly feel when changing direction for example in Chicanes. The car will feel much heavier, understeery, and less responsive if brakes are too large. So I won’t go into Goods and Bads of this this one. Play around with each brake size and see which one you prefer better.

3. “Balance” - Alright, we now got to one of the mysterious areas of the setup where most people scratch their heads trying to figure it out, thinking what the hell does it do. Unlike previous year, we have lost the ability to add Weight Ballast to the car. However we still have the “Anti-Roll Bar” aka “Sway Bar”. What does it do?

“Anti-Roll Bar” – It is a structure that is connected from Left Side Suspension to the Right Side Suspension of the Car by a carbon fiber bar in F1. Its primary task is to control the Body Flex of the Car during Cornering. So increasing the Number of the Anti-Roll Bar, will make the bar smaller, thus tighter, thus there will be less Body Flexing when car turns. (For example, lets say we are running stiff suspension, and our Front Left Tyre runs over the kerb, we will notice our Front Right Tyre Hanging in the Air, because the Body of the Car will not Flex to keep the Right Tyre on the ground. Same will happen with the Rear Tyres)

“Anti-Roll Bar” – is effective tool to fight Weight Transfer problem, when changing directions on chicanes. No need for use of extreme numbers here, as it may lead to severe oversteer problems during acceleration and change of directions. As car may start flexing too much, or sliding too much.

If you feel that your car snaps when changing direction from side to side. Try increasing the Rear Anti-Roll Bar to tighten up the rear end.
Otherwise anti-roll bars are very effective as is at levels 6/6.

4. “Suspension” - This should be easy for most to understand. As game tips are pretty clear on what it does.

Ride Hide – Lover the Better. So try to stay as low as possible for maximum Downforce. If you see sparks flying in the back, or the car looses control when you drive over the kerb. That means you’re too low, and its time to raise it up a little.
You can use the ride hide to manipulate the car balance in the Medium to Fast Speed Coners, by changing the “Rake” of the car. If you make rear height higher that the front, that will give you more oversteer in the Medium to Fast Corners. Higher front will have the reverse effect.

Spring Stiffness

High Front Spring Stiffness
Good
1. Fast Change of Directions.
2. Responsive car behavior.
3. Reduced Weight Transfer problem when changing directions in Medium to Fast Speed Chicanes.

Bad
1. Understeer/Slide/Loss of Grip in Medium To Fast Speed Corners.
2. Lower Mechanical Grip & slow cornering in the Hairpins.
4. Less effective breaking & longer breaking distance. Possible Lock UPs.
5. Must avoid high Kerbs.
6. Higher Tyre Degradation.

Low Front Spring Stiffness
Good
1. Higher Mechanical Grip & fast cornering in the Hairpins.
2. More effective Breaking & shorter breaking distance.
3. Ability to attack the Kerb.
4. Lower Tyre Degradation.

Bad
1. Weight Transfer problem when changing directions in Medium to Fast Speed Chicanes.
2. Reduced Car responsiveness.

High Rear Spring Stiffness
Good
1. Fast Change of Directions.
2. Responsive car behavior.
3. Reduced Weight Transfer problem when changing directions in Medium to Fast Speed Chicanes.

Bad
1. Understeer/Slide/Loss of Grip in Medium To Fast Speed Corners.
2. Lower Mechanical Grip & slow cornering in the Hairpins.
4. Less effective breaking & longer breaking distance. Possible Lock UPs.
5. Must avoid high Kerbs.
6. Higher Tyre Degradation.
7. Lower Traction, slower acceleration.

Low Rear Spring Stiffness
Good
1. Higher Mechanical Grip & fast cornering in the Hairpins.
2. More effective Breaking & shorter breaking distance.
3. Ability to attack the Kerb.
4. Lower Tyre Degradation.
5. Better Traction, faster acceleration.

Bad
1. Weight Transfer problem when changing directions in Medium to Fast Speed Chicanes.
2. Reduced Car responsiveness.

5. “Gearbox” - Now, we are back to another complicated section of the setup. If you think that F1 Gearbox is only made for making the car go to its Top Speed as fast and efficient as possible, you are wrong. Gearbox actually plays big role in the balance of you car throughout the corners as well. If you make the Gear Ratios Too Long, you will feel lots of understeer through out the corners, and most people think its their wing levels, so they go back and screw that part up of their balance. So…

Now that you learned from Section 2, in the Track info, the Top Speed of the Track. Also you learned that gearbox effect the balance of your car through out the corners. You are ready to start finding the right Ratios.

Rule#1 – You must set you Gearbox, so that any corner you take must be taken in High RPMs.

I always start with the 7th Gear because Track Info tells me what Speed I should be aiming for. So First lets try to achieve that speed.

Then moving on to 6th Gear. Given that 6th Gear is smaller in its size than 7th, it has ability to be longer. So we use its ability and make 6th gear slightly longer to help our 7th gear achieve its Top Speed.

Same thing applies to 5th Gear, its smaller then 6th Gear and can afford to be even longer. So we set that one up slightly longer than 6th.
Always keep smooth lines. Do not go too long as there is always a limit of each Gear. You must find its sweet spot.

Next 4 Gears are now important more to aid you in cornering than acceleration. So you do not have to make them longer, instead you have to make sure when u use each gear it will help you enter and take the corner you need as efficient as possible on high RPMS.

You can now play with 4th,3rd, 2nd and 1st gear to find the right balance. But again, always keep smooth lines between gears, as it represents the behavior of the acceleration. You can only afford to make bigger difference in rations on 1st two Gears. As they are smallest in size, and they can be as short or as long as possible without loosing too much time.

1st and 2nd Gears are also important for you Traction. So if you struggle to get traction make it longer to reduce the amount of Torque.
Also remember, that it may not be the only source of low traction problem. (Low Rear Wing Levels, Stiff Rear Springs, Short Gearbox, High Camber – effect your traction)

So once you test your first Gearbox Setup. Pay attention to how the car behaves in corners, and what Top Speed do you reach.

If your car screams through the corners, and Redlines on the Straight. That means we made the gearbox too short.
So moving it by one point longer, should improve the balance and the top speed. So you keep testing it, until you’re more or less happy with it.

Oversteer, Lower Traction = Shorter Gears
Understeer, Higher Traction = Longer Gears

6. “Engine” – Im skipping this one for obvious reasons. Nothing new to learn here.

7. “Alignment” – This is another confusing section to some drivers.

Lets look at Camber. What is Camber?

“Camber” – is the angle of the Tires in its Vertical Axis.

In the picture above you see Negative Camber. Thats how your tires will look like if you move the knob towards -3.50. (IN)
If you set it to -3.50 that is called High Camber. As you can see in the image, very little of the rubber actually hitting the ground when the car is standing still or driving straight to that matter. However when the car starts to turn in the Medium to Fast Speed Corners it will start leaning more towards one side, thus using more of its rubber to make the turn more efficient. Sounds like good idea? Yes, but now we are facing different problem, we don’t have enough rubber to stop and accelerate the car effectively.

Now:
High Front Camber
Good
1. Fast Change of Directions in the Medium to Fast Speed Corners/Chicanes.
2. Responsive car behavior at Medium to Fast Speeds.
3. Improved Mechanical Grip in Medium to Fast Speed Corners/Chicanes.

Bad
1. Higher Tyre Degradation.
2. Less effective breaking & longer breaking distance. Possible Lock UPs.
3. Understeer/Lack of Grip at Slow Speed Corners/Chicanes/Hairpins

Low Front Camber
Good
1. Fast Change of Directions in Slow Speed Corners/Chicanes.
2. Responsive car behavior at Slow Speeds.
3. Improved Mechanical Grip in Slow speed Corners/Chicanes/Hairpins.
4. More effective Breaking & shorter breaking distance.
5. Lower Tyre Degradation.

Bad
1. Less effective breaking & longer breaking distance. Possible Lock UPs.
2. Lower Traction, slower acceleration.
3. Understeer/Lack of grip in Medium to Fast Speed Corners/Chicanes

High Rear Camber
Good
1. Fast Change of Directions in the Medium to Fast Speed Corners/Chicanes.
2. Responsive car behavior at Medium to Fast Speeds.
3. Improved Mechanical Grip in Medium to Fast Speed Corners/Chicanes.

Bad
1. Higher Tyre Degradation.
2. Less effective breaking & longer breaking distance. Possible Lock UPs.
3. Oversteer/Lack of Grip at Slow Speed Corners/Chicanes/Hairpins
4. Low Traction, slower Acceleration.

Low Rear Camber
Good
1. Fast Change of Directions in Slow Speed Corners/Chicanes.
2. Responsive car behavior at Slow Speeds.
3. Improved Mechanical Grip in Slow speed Corners/Chicanes/Hairpins.
4. More effective Breaking & shorter breaking distance.
5. Lower Tyre Degradation.
6. Improved Traction, faster acceleration.

Bad
1. Less effective breaking & longer breaking distance. Possible Lock UPs.
2. Oversteer/Lack of grip in Medium to Fast Speed Corners/Chicanes

Lets look at Toe now. What is Toe?

Ok this I have yet to understand, because it doesn’t seem to work as it should be. The only benefit from this I found is that.
If you’re struggling with Low Traction on acceleration from Slow Speed Corners, and your Car starts to oversteer and spin out.
This is where i found it beneficial to have Rear Toe set to OUT. What happens is, it does NOT give you better traction. But it keep your car straight when you loose traction.

Other then this benefit, i have yet to find some performance in this area.

This in reality effect Tyre Degradation as well.

Section 4. Car Setup

When it comes to SETUPs. Always have 4 Different Types of Setups for each Track & 1 BackUp. Only then you are 100% Prepared for the Race.

1. Qualification Setup
2. Race Setup
3. Intermediate Weather Setup
4. Wet Weather Setup
5. Back up your Qualification Setup

First thing to start with is Qualification Setup (Always Test this in Dry Weather).

For Dry Setups you can run more risk by using more aggressive wing levels, stronger brakes, stiffer suspensions, shorter gearboxes and higher cambers.

As it gets closer to Wet Conditions, you gotta tune down on all those things to find the ideal balance.

I hope this guide helps some of you. But I just spent 8 hours to write this, so will need to take a break, and perhaps proof read it, and edit it more later.